Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Calm waters at last


      It is one long, long boat ride from the south end of Atchafalaya Bay, all the way up the bay, thru the channel markers, to the mouth of the Atchafalaya River, then up the river channel to Morgan City.  Terry pulled out some manual pumps, and all along the way, we took turns pumping out water.  Eventually, we were able to gain control of the situation so at least the cabin water wasn’t getting worse.  But oh, what a mess there was down there. 
      A pod of dolphins appeared as we traversed the muddy waters of the bay.  There must have been eight to ten of them, jumping and playing in our wake.  They swam with us for several miles.     
      When we finally entered the river, we found ourselves, for the first time in days, in calm protected waters.  Then the sun went down, and we were now navigating an unfamiliar channel in the black of night, along with some serious river currents.  And we were not exactly sure of our destination. Fortunately, the channel markers were well lit.
      At around 10 o’clock, we had to admit that we would not make it to Morgan City that night; and even if we did make it, the chances of finding someplace to tie up were pretty slim.  It made sense to hole up for the night, get some food and rest, and start fresh in the morning.  So we found a wide spot in the river, out of the channel.  In about 10 feet of water, we dropped anchor.
      Monday morning, come daylight, after some good restful sleep, I could see where we were.  The river was surrounded by marsh.  Frogs, gulls, and other critters croaked, chirped, and cackled; it was actually a rather lovely spot.  The only signs of human life were occasional passing fishing boats and tug-pushed barges.  They would slow as they passed us there at anchor.  I’m sure they were thinking, “what the hell is a sailboat doing up here?”
      A quick breakfast and we were off towards Morgan City.  Terry got to work on an improvised bilge pump.  At the helm, I noticed at one point that the river maxed out at 103 feet deep.
      Based on the information from the onboard GPS system with integrated maps, our best destination in Morgan City was a downtown marina.  Supposedly, it had full services, including electrical power hookups, and that all-so-important laundry.  (All of my clothes were soaked with greasy slime.)  But as we entered the city, it became apparent that that was impossible; our path was blocked by a too-low bridge.  The Curmudgeon needed 58 feet, and the lowest bridge had a clearance of just 50. 
     There was a tugboat dock nearby; we headed there.
     The tugboat guys all turned out to be extremely helpful and friendly. The dock manager came up to us and said there was no problem at all staying tied up there for a few days while we make repairs, and was there anything at all we needed?  A ride into town, perhaps?  I mentioned that I needed to find a laundromat, but he told me I was more than welcome to use the washer and dryer aboard one of the tugs!!   I told Terry, hey, you’re in Cajun Country now, and these are my people, God’s people, the warmest and most hospitable folks you will ever meet anywhere!
       Terry found a spare working iphone somewhere, and I was able to contact my family and apprise them of the situation.  Dad & Mom said they were more than happy to drive from Lake Charles down to Morgan City on Tuesday to get me.   Having failed to make Tampa, Terry's plans were to take the ICW back to Galveston.  I considered joining him for a day or two; that sounded like a relaxed, easy journey.  But, my time aboard the Curmudgeon was up and I needed to get on home.
      That afternoon, Terry and I fixed ourselves some cocktails, and sat on the dock and visited with some locals who came there to fish.  Then we got down and dirty and started cleaning up the mess below.
      Many days later, as I write this journal, my body’s equilibrium is still out of whack.  I still feel like I’m rocking and rolling aboard the raging sea.  The last time I lived aboard a boat for a week, it took nearly two weeks for my land legs to return.

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